It just keeps getting better! The morning began with a continuation of yesterday’s walk down the Paria. Rich reds dominated the scene, with the sprinkling of ever-present gold cottonwoods. The occasional stop in 2 inches of gooey, slick mud was the only distraction. As we walked down the river the canyon opened up again and the mud began to give way to sand as a source of annoyance. Still, the red rock canyon walls, shimmering saffron trees, and the cool, clear river made travel a delight.
Despite the wilderness designation a recently used jeep track crisscrossed the Paria all the way down from Sheep Creek to the Paria town site road. We didn’t see any cars or people until we reached the old movie sets, an unimpressive collection of old stone cabins and the like.
The short section of narrows between the set and Cottonwood Creek was much more enjoyable, towering painted walls shone in the sun next to the bizarre, creepy caves, reminiscent of eye sockets.
The walk up the new dry Cottonwood Drainage was surprisingly fun. It was well named, and the mingling greens and golds made up for the lackluster terrain. Despite the lack of water, Cottonwood was thickly vegetated. The three of us had fun trying to outwit each other in crossing the most efficient route. At one point I passed a struggling Sharon soon after I had decided to stay in the creek, while she had climbed out and tried her luck on the bank only to find her self stuck in some shrubs.
I waved and grinned as I strolled by only to be stunned when a grinning Sharon emerged in front of me around the next bend.
We soon reached Hackberry Canyon. There were no words I know of that are adequate to describe this place. It’s simple beyond any synonyms for beauty I know. The richly painted walls encompass every shade from dark burgundy to a glowing ivory that seemed soft and subtle like butter, while at the same time smooth and solid like polished silver.
The walls are covered with multihued painted stains that flow down the walls like a frozen waterfall. Layer in the stone curve in loops and arches, added even more depth and texture to the stone. The three of us walked through this geological masterpiece along a verdant oasis, a small glittering stream, watering spectacular cottonwoods, shining brightly when the sun hits them and appearing a rich red and gold when it doesn’t.
As often as not we walk in the creek, following it for about nine miles while the canyon walls narrow, widen, and then narrow again. Eventually, the water starts to die out. We are camped next to one of the last few pools of the creek in a grove of cottonwoods, so the leaves of the trees rustle in the unfelt breeze and the stars are shining brightly.
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